Almar Rafael, Cienfuegos R., Gonzalez E., Catalan P., Villagran M., Michallet H., Bonneton P., Castelle B., Suarez L. (2012). Barred-beach morphological control on infragravity motion. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, (33), 9 p. International Conference on Coastal Engineering (ICCE), 33., Santander (SPA), 2012/07/01-06. ISBN 978-0-9896611-1-9. ISSN 2156-1028.
Titre du document
Barred-beach morphological control on infragravity motion
Année de publication
2012
Auteurs
Almar Rafael, Cienfuegos R., Gonzalez E., Catalan P., Villagran M., Michallet H., Bonneton P., Castelle B., Suarez L.
Source
Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 2012,
(33), 9 p. ISBN 978-0-9896611-1-9 ISSN 2156-1028
Colloque
International Conference on Coastal Engineering (ICCE), 33., Santander (SPA), 2012/07/01-06
A conceptual analysis of the coupling between bars and infragravity waves is performed combining laboratory experiments and numerical modeling. Experiments are carried out in a wave flume with a barred profile. The Boussinesq fully-nonlinear model SERR1D is validated with the laboratory data and a sensitivity analysis is performed next to study the influence on the infragravity wave dynamics of bar amplitude and location, and swash zone slope. A novel technique of incident and reflected motions separation that conserves temporal characteristics is applied. We observe that changing bar characteristics induces substantial variations in trapped energy. Interestingly, a modification of swash zone slope has a large influence on the reflected component, controlling amplitude and phase time-lag, and consequently on the resonant pattern. Variations of trapped infragravity energy induced by changes of swash zone slope reach 25 %. These changes in infragravity pattern consequently affect short-wave dynamics by modifying the breakpoint location and the breaking intensity. Our conceptual investigation suggests the existence of a morphological feedback through the action of evolving morphology on infragravity structures which modulates the action of short-waves on the morphology itself.
Plan de classement
Dynamique des eaux [032DYNEAU]
;
Traitement / Analyse numérique [126TELTRN]
Descripteurs
ZONE COTIERE ; LITTORAL ; PLAGE ; HYDRODYNAMIQUE ; GEOMORPHOLOGIE ; PENTE ; MODELISATION ; ETUDE EXPERIMENTALE ; VAGUE
Description Géographique
CHILI ; SANTIAGO DU CHILI
Localisation
Fonds IRD [F B010064312]
Identifiant IRD
fdi:010064312
