%0 Journal Article
%9 ACL : Articles dans des revues avec comité de lecture non répertoriées par l'AERES
%A Almar, Rafael
%A Cienfuegos, R.
%A Gonzalez, E.
%A Catalan, P.
%A Villagran, M.
%A Michallet, H.
%A Bonneton, P.
%A Castelle, B.
%A Suarez, L.
%T Barred-beach morphological control on infragravity motion
%D 2012
%E Lynett, P.
%E McKee Smith, J.
%L fdi:010064312
%G ENG
%J Coastal Engineering Proceedings
%@ 2156-1028
%K ZONE COTIERE ; LITTORAL ; PLAGE ; HYDRODYNAMIQUE ; GEOMORPHOLOGIE ; PENTE ; MODELISATION ; ETUDE EXPERIMENTALE
%K VAGUE
%K CHILI ; SANTIAGO DU CHILI
%N 33
%P 9
%R 10.9753/icce.v33.currents.24
%U https://www.documentation.ird.fr/hor/fdi:010064312
%> https://horizon.documentation.ird.fr/exl-doc/pleins_textes/divers15-03/010064312.pdf
%W Horizon (IRD)
%X A conceptual analysis of the coupling between bars and infragravity waves is performed combining laboratory experiments and numerical modeling. Experiments are carried out in a wave flume with a barred profile. The Boussinesq fully-nonlinear model SERR1D is validated with the laboratory data and a sensitivity analysis is performed next to study the influence on the infragravity wave dynamics of bar amplitude and location, and swash zone slope. A novel technique of incident and reflected motions separation that conserves temporal characteristics is applied. We observe that changing bar characteristics induces substantial variations in trapped energy. Interestingly, a modification of swash zone slope has a large influence on the reflected component, controlling amplitude and phase time-lag, and consequently on the resonant pattern. Variations of trapped infragravity energy induced by changes of swash zone slope reach 25 %. These changes in infragravity pattern consequently affect short-wave dynamics by modifying the breakpoint location and the breaking intensity. Our conceptual investigation suggests the existence of a morphological feedback through the action of evolving morphology on infragravity structures which modulates the action of short-waves on the morphology itself.
%B International Conference on Coastal Engineering (ICCE)
%8 2012/07/01-06
%$ 032DYNEAU ; 126TELTRN