@article{fdi:010064312,
  title = {{B}arred-beach morphological control on infragravity motion},
  author = {{A}lmar, {R}afael and {C}ienfuegos, {R}. and {G}onzalez, {E}. and {C}atalan, {P}. and {V}illagran, {M}. and {M}ichallet, {H}. and {B}onneton, {P}. and {C}astelle, {B}. and {S}uarez, {L}.},
  editor = {},
  language = {{ENG}},
  abstract = {{A} conceptual analysis of the coupling between bars and infragravity waves is performed combining laboratory experiments and numerical modeling. {E}xperiments are carried out in a wave flume with a barred profile. {T}he {B}oussinesq fully-nonlinear model {SERR}1{D} is validated with the laboratory data and a sensitivity analysis is performed next to study the influence on the infragravity wave dynamics of bar amplitude and location, and swash zone slope. {A} novel technique of incident and reflected motions separation that conserves temporal characteristics is applied. {W}e observe that changing bar characteristics induces substantial variations in trapped energy. {I}nterestingly, a modification of swash zone slope has a large influence on the reflected component, controlling amplitude and phase time-lag, and consequently on the resonant pattern. {V}ariations of trapped infragravity energy induced by changes of swash zone slope reach 25 %. {T}hese changes in infragravity pattern consequently affect short-wave dynamics by modifying the breakpoint location and the breaking intensity. {O}ur conceptual investigation suggests the existence of a morphological feedback through the action of evolving morphology on infragravity structures which modulates the action of short-waves on the morphology itself.},
  keywords = {{ZONE} {COTIERE} ; {LITTORAL} ; {PLAGE} ; {HYDRODYNAMIQUE} ; {GEOMORPHOLOGIE} ; {PENTE} ; {MODELISATION} ; {ETUDE} {EXPERIMENTALE} ; {VAGUE} ; {CHILI} ; {SANTIAGO} {DU} {CHILI}},
  booktitle = {},
  journal = {{C}oastal {E}ngineering {P}roceedings},
  numero = {33},
  pages = {9},
  ISSN = {2156-1028},
  year = {2012},
  DOI = {10.9753/icce.v33.currents.24},
  ISBN = {978-0-9896611-1-9},
  URL = {https://www.documentation.ird.fr/hor/fdi:010064312},
}