Publications des scientifiques de l'IRD

Sous D., Tissier M., Rey V., Touboul J., Bouchette F., Devenon J. L., Chevalier Cristèle, Aucan Jerôme. (2019). Wave transformation over a barrier reef. Continental Shelf Research, 184, p. 66-80. ISSN 0278-4343.

Titre du document
Wave transformation over a barrier reef
Année de publication
2019
Type de document
Article référencé dans le Web of Science WOS:000480377200007
Auteurs
Sous D., Tissier M., Rey V., Touboul J., Bouchette F., Devenon J. L., Chevalier Cristèle, Aucan Jerôme
Source
Continental Shelf Research, 2019, 184, p. 66-80 ISSN 0278-4343
This paper reports a combined observational and numerical study of wave transformation over barrier reefs. The field instrumentation, which consists in a cross-shore network of pressure sensors and one high resolution velocity profiler, has been deployed for more than two months over the Guano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The combined analysis of observations and numerical simulations shows that the reef barrier acts as an efficient, but depth-dependent, filter for incoming wave energy. The data analysis reveals the presence of very low frequency standing wave patterns due to reflection either at the reef barrier inner boundary or at the lagoon shore. Another striking feature is the development of undular bore trains over the reef flat.
Plan de classement
Limnologie physique / Océanographie physique [032]
Description Géographique
NOUVELLE CALEDONIE
Localisation
Fonds IRD [F B010076556]
Identifiant IRD
fdi:010076556
Contact