%0 Journal Article
%9 ACL : Articles dans des revues avec comité de lecture répertoriées par l'AERES
%A Sous, D.
%A Tissier, M.
%A Rey, V.
%A Touboul, J.
%A Bouchette, F.
%A Devenon, J. L.
%A Chevalier, Cristèle
%A Aucan, Jerôme
%T Wave transformation over a barrier reef
%D 2019
%L fdi:010076556
%G ENG
%J Continental Shelf Research
%@ 0278-4343
%K Wave transformation ; Reef barrier ; Infragravity waves ; Very low frequency ; Undular bores ; Field experiments ; Shallow water model
%K NOUVELLE CALEDONIE
%K PACIFIQUE SUD
%M ISI:000480377200007
%P 66-80
%R 10.1016/j.csr.2019.07.010
%U https://www.documentation.ird.fr/hor/fdi:010076556
%> https://www.documentation.ird.fr/intranet/publi/2019/08/010076556.pdf
%V 184
%W Horizon (IRD)
%X This paper reports a combined observational and numerical study of wave transformation over barrier reefs. The field instrumentation, which consists in a cross-shore network of pressure sensors and one high resolution velocity profiler, has been deployed for more than two months over the Guano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The combined analysis of observations and numerical simulations shows that the reef barrier acts as an efficient, but depth-dependent, filter for incoming wave energy. The data analysis reveals the presence of very low frequency standing wave patterns due to reflection either at the reef barrier inner boundary or at the lagoon shore. Another striking feature is the development of undular bore trains over the reef flat.
%$ 032