@article{fdi:010076556,
  title = {{W}ave transformation over a barrier reef},
  author = {{S}ous, {D}. and {T}issier, {M}. and {R}ey, {V}. and {T}ouboul, {J}. and {B}ouchette, {F}. and {D}evenon, {J}. {L}. and {C}hevalier, {C}rist{\`e}le and {A}ucan, {J}er{\^o}me},
  editor = {},
  language = {{ENG}},
  abstract = {{T}his paper reports a combined observational and numerical study of wave transformation over barrier reefs. {T}he field instrumentation, which consists in a cross-shore network of pressure sensors and one high resolution velocity profiler, has been deployed for more than two months over the {G}uano reef barrier, {N}ew {C}aledonia. {T}he combined analysis of observations and numerical simulations shows that the reef barrier acts as an efficient, but depth-dependent, filter for incoming wave energy. {T}he data analysis reveals the presence of very low frequency standing wave patterns due to reflection either at the reef barrier inner boundary or at the lagoon shore. {A}nother striking feature is the development of undular bore trains over the reef flat.},
  keywords = {{W}ave transformation ; {R}eef barrier ; {I}nfragravity waves ; {V}ery low frequency ; {U}ndular bores ; {F}ield experiments ; {S}hallow water model ; {NOUVELLE} {CALEDONIE} ; {PACIFIQUE} {SUD}},
  booktitle = {},
  journal = {{C}ontinental {S}helf {R}esearch},
  volume = {184},
  numero = {},
  pages = {66--80},
  ISSN = {0278-4343},
  year = {2019},
  DOI = {10.1016/j.csr.2019.07.010},
  URL = {https://www.documentation.ird.fr/hor/fdi:010076556},
}