@article{fdi:010091296,
  title = {{C}orrection of coherent interference in wave-resolving nearshore models and validation with experimental data},
  author = {{T}reillou, {S}imon and {M}archesiello, {P}atrick and {B}aker, {C}. {M}.},
  editor = {},
  language = {{ENG}},
  abstract = {{H}ere we address the problem of coherent interference that arises in double-sum wavemakers of wave-resolving models. {I}dentified as a key problem for experimental and numerical simulations since the late 1970s, this problem induces spurious persistent longshore variability and affects nearshore dynamics. {T}o overcome this problem, we present the implementation of a single-sum wavemaker in the 3{D} wave-resolving model {CROCO}. {T}he new wavemaker, which assigns only one pair of direction and frequency values to each component of the wave spectrum, definitively prevents coherent interference, unlike a conventional double-sum wavemaker that allows waves of different direction to share the same frequency. {E}ach wave component must also strictly comply with the periodicity rules, to avoid any spurious boundary dynamics. {W}e validate the single-sum wavemaker with experimental data collected in a wave basin with longshore-uniform bathymetry and compare results with the double-sum wavemaker simulations. {W}e show that the new wavemaker produces transient rips devoid of any coherent interference effect and that, consequently, the model statistics closely match the experimental data. {T}he new wavemaker therefore guarantees statistical integrity while reducing computational costs, a necessary step for realistic wave-resolving studies of nearshore dynamics.},
  keywords = {{C}oherent interference ; {W}ave-resolving model ; {W}avemaker ; {W}ave basin ; {D}irectional spread},
  booktitle = {},
  journal = {{O}cean {M}odelling},
  volume = {189},
  numero = {},
  pages = {102369 [10 ]},
  ISSN = {1463-5003},
  year = {2024},
  DOI = {10.1016/j.ocemod.2024.102369},
  URL = {https://www.documentation.ird.fr/hor/fdi:010091296},
}