@article{fdi:010091239,
  title = {{W}ave climate around {N}ew {C}aledonia},
  author = {{P}agli, {B}astien and {D}uphil, {M}axime and {J}ullien, {S}. and {D}utheil, {C}. and {P}eltier, {A}. and {M}enk{\`e}s, {C}hristophe},
  editor = {},
  language = {{ENG}},
  abstract = {{P}acific islands are widely exposed to several strong wave events all year long. {H}owever, comprehensive analyses of coastal vulnerabilities to wave climates and their extremes are often lacking in those islands. {I}n the present paper, the wave climate around the reef of {N}ew {C}aledonia is analyzed using a 28-year simulation performed with the {W}ave {W}atch {III} model, and accounting for realistic wind intensity forcing from tropical cyclones. {F}our mean wave regimes are defined with clustering methods, and are shown to vary along the reef depending on its main orientation. {T}he western reef is mostly exposed to energetic south-western swells (significant height over 1.5 m, peak period of similar to 12 s) generated in the {T}asman {S}ea that are reinforced during austral winter. {T}he northern sector and the {L}oyalty {I}slands, are hit by shorter waves (similar to 8 to 9 s period) coming from the south-east to the north-east, with height ranging on average from 0.8 m in the {L}oyalty {C}hannel to 1.5 m at the northern tip of the {G}rande {T}erre reef. {T}hese waves mainly result from the south-eastern trade winds that blow over the central south-western {P}acific all year long. {I}n austral summer, additional swell remotely generated by both the extra-tropical westerlies and the north-eastern trade winds of the northern hemisphere reach the north-eastern reef of the archipelago. {T}hese wave regimes also strongly vary in response to the interannual {E}l {N}ino-{S}outhern {O}scillation. {E}l {N}ino events tend to increase the frequency of the south-western swell regime in austral spring and fall, and of the south-eastern trade wind waves in austral summer. {I}n contrast, during {L}a {N}ina, waves generated in the northern hemisphere are more likely to reach {N}ew {C}aledonia all year long. {F}inally, extreme wave events and their return periods were assessed. {W}ave amplitude reaching 7 m is estimated to occur every 100 years. {O}n the west and southern tip of the {G}rande {T}erre reef, extreme waves are 80% of the time westerly waves generated by storms in the {T}asman {S}ea or in the {C}oral {S}ea, while on the eastern reefs ({L}oyalty {I}slands and {C}hannel), 70% of the extreme wave episodes are associated to tropical cyclone-induced waves. {D}uring {L}a {N}ina episodes, more tropical cyclones pass by {N}ew {C}aledonia, increasing their contribution to extreme wave events along the western and southern coasts of the island. {C}onversely, in {E}l {N}ino conditions, the exposure to tropical cyclone-induced waves is predominantly concentrated on the northeastern side.},
  keywords = {{W}ave climate ; {C}lustering ; {E}xtreme values analysis ; {T}ropical cyclones ; {ENSO} ; {N}ew caledonia ; {NOUVELLE} {CALEDONIE}},
  booktitle = {},
  journal = {{C}limate {D}ynamics},
  volume = {[{E}arly access]},
  numero = {},
  pages = {[23 p.]},
  ISSN = {0930-7575},
  year = {2024},
  DOI = {10.1007/s00382-024-07365-1},
  URL = {https://www.documentation.ird.fr/hor/fdi:010091239},
}