@article{fdi:010079364,
  title = {{D}istant-source swells cause coastal inundation on {F}iji's coral coast},
  author = {{W}andres, {M}. and {A}ucan, {J}er{\^o}me and {E}spejo, {A}. and {J}ackson, {N}. and {N}'{Y}eurt, {A}. {D}. and {D}amlamian, {H}.},
  editor = {},
  language = {{ENG}},
  abstract = {{D}istant-source swells are known to regularly inundate low-lying {P}acific {I}sland communities. {H}ere we examine extreme total water level ({TWL}) and inundation driven by a distant-source swell on {F}iji's {C}oral {C}oast using observations and a phase-resolving wave model ({XB}each). {T}he objective of this study is to increase understanding of swell-driven hazards in fringing reef environments to identify the contribution of wave setup and infragravity waves to extreme {TWL} and to investigate coastal flooding during present and future sea levels. {T}he maximum {TWL} near the shore was caused by compounding mechanisms, where tides, wave setup, infragravity waves, and waves in the sea swell frequencies contributed to the {TWL}. {W}aves and wave setup on the reef were modulated by offshore wave heights and tides with increased setup during low tide and increased wave heights during high tide. {N}umerical simulations were able to reproduce the mechanisms contributing to the extreme {TWL} and allowed an estimation of the inundation extent. {S}imulations of the same swell under the {RCP}8.5 sea-level rise scenario suggest the area of inundation would increase by 97% by 2100. {A} comparison between the numerical model, a multiple linear regression model, and two commonly used parametric models reveals that both {XB}each and the linear regression model are better suited to reproduce the nearshore wave setup and {TWL} than the empirical equations. {T}he results highlight the need for customized, site-specific coastal hazard assessments and inundation forecast systems in the {S}outh {P}acific.},
  keywords = {coastal inundation ; infragravity waves ; wave setup ; distant swells ; coastal flooding ; {XB}each ; multiple linear regression ; climate change ; {PACIFIQUE} ; {FIDJI} ; {VITI} {LEVU}},
  booktitle = {},
  journal = {{F}rontiers in {M}arine {S}cience},
  volume = {7},
  numero = {},
  pages = {art. 546 [10 p.]},
  year = {2020},
  DOI = {10.3389/fmars.2020.00546},
  URL = {https://www.documentation.ird.fr/hor/fdi:010079364},
}