%0 Journal Article
%9 ACL : Articles dans des revues avec comité de lecture répertoriées par l'AERES
%A Almar, Rafaël
%A Lerma, A. N.
%A Castelle, B.
%A Scott, T.
%T On the influence of reflection over a rhythmic swash zone on surf zone dynamics
%D 2018
%L fdi:010073178
%G ENG
%J Ocean Dynamics
%@ 1616-7341
%K Nearshore ; Beach cusps ; Reflection ; Edge wave ; Surf-swash interactions ; Low-tide terraced beach ; SWASH model ; Radon transform ; Rip current
%K ATLANTIQUE ; BENIN
%K GRAND POPO
%M ISI:000435673500009
%N 7
%P 899-909
%R 10.1007/s10236-018-1165-5
%U https://www.documentation.ird.fr/hor/fdi:010073178
%> https://www.documentation.ird.fr/intranet/publi/2018/07/010073178.pdf
%V 68
%W Horizon (IRD)
%X The reflection of incident gravity waves over an irregular swash zone morphology and the resulting influence on surf zone dynamics remains mostly unexplored. The wave-phase resolving SWASH model is applied to investigate this feedback using realistic low-tide terraced beach morphology with well-developed beach cusps. The rhythmic reflection generates a standing wave that mimics a subharmonic edge wave, from the superimposition of incident and two-dimensional reflected waves. This mechanism is enhanced by shore-normal, narrow-banded waves in both direction and frequency. Our study suggests that wave reflection over steep beaches could be a mechanism for the development of rhythmic morphological features such as beach cusps and rip currents.
%$ 032 ; 064 ; 020 ; 126