@article{fdi:010073178,
  title = {{O}n the influence of reflection over a rhythmic swash zone on surf zone dynamics},
  author = {{A}lmar, {R}afa{\¨e}l and {L}erma, {A}. {N}. and {C}astelle, {B}. and {S}cott, {T}.},
  editor = {},
  language = {{ENG}},
  abstract = {{T}he reflection of incident gravity waves over an irregular swash zone morphology and the resulting influence on surf zone dynamics remains mostly unexplored. {T}he wave-phase resolving {SWASH} model is applied to investigate this feedback using realistic low-tide terraced beach morphology with well-developed beach cusps. {T}he rhythmic reflection generates a standing wave that mimics a subharmonic edge wave, from the superimposition of incident and two-dimensional reflected waves. {T}his mechanism is enhanced by shore-normal, narrow-banded waves in both direction and frequency. {O}ur study suggests that wave reflection over steep beaches could be a mechanism for the development of rhythmic morphological features such as beach cusps and rip currents.},
  keywords = {{N}earshore ; {B}each cusps ; {R}eflection ; {E}dge wave ; {S}urf-swash interactions ; {L}ow-tide terraced beach ; {SWASH} model ; {R}adon transform ; {R}ip current ; {ATLANTIQUE} ; {BENIN} ; {GRAND} {POPO}},
  booktitle = {},
  journal = {{O}cean {D}ynamics},
  volume = {68},
  numero = {7},
  pages = {899--909},
  ISSN = {1616-7341},
  year = {2018},
  DOI = {10.1007/s10236-018-1165-5},
  URL = {https://www.documentation.ird.fr/hor/fdi:010073178},
}