Almar Rafaël, Lerma A. N., Castelle B., Scott T. (2018). On the influence of reflection over a rhythmic swash zone on surf zone dynamics. Ocean Dynamics, 68 (7), p. 899-909. ISSN 1616-7341.
Titre du document
On the influence of reflection over a rhythmic swash zone on surf zone dynamics
Ocean Dynamics, 2018,
68 (7), p. 899-909 ISSN 1616-7341
The reflection of incident gravity waves over an irregular swash zone morphology and the resulting influence on surf zone dynamics remains mostly unexplored. The wave-phase resolving SWASH model is applied to investigate this feedback using realistic low-tide terraced beach morphology with well-developed beach cusps. The rhythmic reflection generates a standing wave that mimics a subharmonic edge wave, from the superimposition of incident and two-dimensional reflected waves. This mechanism is enhanced by shore-normal, narrow-banded waves in both direction and frequency. Our study suggests that wave reflection over steep beaches could be a mechanism for the development of rhythmic morphological features such as beach cusps and rip currents.
Plan de classement
Sciences fondamentales / Techniques d'analyse et de recherche [020]
;
Limnologie physique / Océanographie physique [032]
;
Géologie et formations superficielles [064]
;
Télédétection [126]
