@article{fdi:010071889,
  title = {{W}ave forcing and morphological changes of {N}ew {C}aledonia lagoon islets : insights on their possible relations},
  author = {{A}ucan, {J}er{\^o}me and {V}end{\'e}-{L}eclerc, {M}yriam and {D}umas, {P}ascal and {B}ricquir, {M}arianne},
  editor = {},
  language = {{ENG}},
  abstract = {{I}n the present study, we examine how waves may contribute to the morphological changes of islets in the {N}ew {C}aledonia lagoon. {W}e collected in situ wave data to investigate their characteristics. {T}hree types of waves are identified and quantified: (1) high-frequency waves generated within the lagoon, (2) low-frequency waves originating from swells in the {T}asman {S}ea, and (3) infragravity waves. {W}e found out that high-frequency waves are the dominant forcing on the islets during typical wind events throughout the year, while infragravity waves, likely generated by the breaking of low-frequency waves, dominate during seasonal swell events. {D}uring swell events, low-frequency waves can also directly propagate to the islets through channels across the barrier reef, or be tidally modulated across the barrier reef before reaching the islets. {T}opographic surveys and beach profiles on one islet indicate areas with seasonal morphological changes and other areas with longer, interannual or decadal, erosion patterns. {A}lthough more data are needed to validate this hypothesis, we suspect that a relation exists between wave forcing and morphological changes of the islets.},
  keywords = {{W}aves ; {I}nfragravity ; {E}rosion ; {S}ea level ; {N}ew {C}aledonia ; {NOUVELLE} {CALEDONIE}},
  booktitle = {},
  journal = {{C}omptes {R}endus {G}eoscience},
  volume = {349},
  numero = {6-7},
  pages = {248--259},
  ISSN = {1631-0713},
  year = {2017},
  DOI = {10.1016/j.crte.2017.09.003},
  URL = {https://www.documentation.ird.fr/hor/fdi:010071889},
}