@article{fdi:010071121,
  title = {{S}urf-swash interactions on a low-tide terraced beach},
  author = {{A}lmar, {R}afa{\¨e}l and {A}lmeida, {P}. and {B}lenkinsopp, {C}. and {C}atalan, {P}.},
  editor = {},
  language = {{ENG}},
  abstract = {{T}hrough an integrated approach, this paper investigates the role of coupled surf-swash dynamics on outgoing waves using data collected at a low-tide terraced beach, {G}rand {P}opo, {B}enin ({G}ulf of {G}uinea, {W}est {A}frica). {O}bserved reflection is 8 %. {A}nalyses are conducted from deep water directional wave spectra measurements, daily beach surveys and remote video measurements. {O}ur results show that the swash can be a non-negligible component of the nearshore energy balance (14% of total dissipation) and is closely tied to reflection. {R}eflection thus depends on waves at swash inception (offshore waves and surf zone saturation), and shoreface slope varying with tide and morphological evolution. {A}n outgoing cut-off frequency (shortest reflected waves) can be linked to swash saturation with a strong dependence on shoreface slope. {A} phase-resolving {B}oussinesq model was validated and used to investigate the influence of terrace width, upper shoreface slope and tidal elevation over the terrace. {T}his papers puts forward the role of the coupled system surf-swash and underlines potential key interactions between a rapid shoreface evolution and surf zone hydro-morphodynamics.},
  keywords = {{G}rand {P}opo ; {B}enin ({G}ulf of {G}uinea) ; reflection ; standing wave ; incoming ; and outgoing waves ; {BENIN} ; {GUINEE} {GOLFE}},
  booktitle = {},
  journal = {{J}ournal of {C}oastal {R}esearch},
  numero = {no sp{\'e}cial 75},
  pages = {348--352},
  ISSN = {0749-0208},
  year = {2016},
  DOI = {10.2112/si75-070.1},
  URL = {https://www.documentation.ird.fr/hor/fdi:010071121},
}