@article{fdi:010064310,
  title = {{S}wash zone based reflection during energetic wave conditions at a dissipative beach : toward a wava-by-wave approach},
  author = {{A}lmar, {R}afael and {C}atalan, {P}. and {I}baceta, {R}. and {B}lenkinsopp, {C}. and {C}ienfuegos, {R}. and {V}illagran, {M}. and {A}guilera, {J}.{C}. and {C}astelle, {B}.},
  editor = {},
  language = {{ENG}},
  abstract = {{T}his paper presents a 11-day experiment conducted at the high-energy dissipative beach of {M}ataquito, {M}aule {R}egion, {C}hile. {D}uring the experiment, offshore significant wave height ranged 1-4 m, with persistent long period up to 18 s and oblique incidence. {W}ave energy reflection value ranged from 1 to 4 %, and results show that it is highly linked to both incoming wave characteristics and swash zone beach slope, and is well correlated to a swash-slope based {I}ribarren number. {T}he swash acting as a low-pass filter in the reflection mechanism, our results show that the cut-off period is better determined by swash slope rather than incoming wave's period. {A} new low cost technique for observing high-frequency swash hydro-morphodynamics is introduced and validated using {LIDAR} measurements. {A} good agreement is found. {S}eparation of uprush and backswash components using the {R}adon {T}ransform illustrates the low-frequency filtering effect. {T}hese results show the key role played by swash mechanism in the reflection rate and frequency selection. {M}ore investigation is needed to describe the reflection process and its link with shoreface evolution, moving toward a swash-by-swash approach.},
  keywords = {{ZONE} {COTIERE} ; {LITTORAL} ; {PLAGE} ; {ZONE} {INTERTIDALE} ; {HYDRODYNAMIQUE} ; {ONDE} {MARINE} ; {PENTE} ; {GEOMORPHOLOGIE} ; {METHODE} {D}'{ANALYSE} ; {TELEDETECTION} ; {VIDEO} ; {LASER} ; {CHILI} ; {MAULE} {REGION} ; {MATAQUITO}},
  booktitle = {{I}nternational {C}onference on {C}oastal {E}ngineering ({ICCE})},
  journal = {{C}oastal {E}ngineering {P}roceedings},
  numero = {34},
  pages = {9},
  ISSN = {2156-1028},
  year = {2014},
  DOI = {10.9753/icce.v34.currents.34},
  ISBN = {978-0-9896611-2-6},
  URL = {https://www.documentation.ird.fr/hor/fdi:010064310},
}