@article{PAR00014422,
  title = {{M}orphological response of a macrotidal embayed beach, {P}orsmilin, {F}rance},
  author = {{F}loc'h, {F}. and {L}e {D}antec, {N}. and {L}emos, {C}. and {C}ancouet, {R}. and {S}ous, {D}. and {P}etitjean, {L}. and {B}ouchette, {F}. and {A}rdhuin, {F}abrice and {S}uanez, {S}. and {D}elacourt, {C}.},
  editor = {},
  language = {{ENG}},
  abstract = {{M}orphodynamics of sandy, macrotidal, embayed beaches is complex because of the numerous physical processes interacting at the same location over a wide range of temporal scales. {A}s most of these processes are controlled by beach morphology, dynamic feedbacks are generally observed between hydro- and morphodynamics. {I}nvestigating short-term processes is essential in order to improve long term morphological prediction. {A} key question is to understand how beach slope reacts to forcing conditions, in particular the response time of the beach profile, how long the transient state lasts. {T}his study deals with the spatial and temporal responses of beach morphology to varying incident conditions. {H}ere we report main observations, preliminary results and on-going investigations on the {DYNATREZ}1 field campaign, which was conducted in the framework of the {N}ational {O}bservation {S}ervice {D}ynalit. {B}each profiles are shown to adapt rapidly to forcing conditions, within two days, with more intense variations observed in the high tide swash zone. {T}he presence of infragravity waves and their dissipation on the beach is highlighted. {I}t is likely that the very large variability in beach slope observed over a single neap-spring cycle is responsible for the accordingly large variability in wave skewness, asymmetry and breaking processes, and thus in sediment fluxes and morphological changes.},
  keywords = {morphodynamics ; macrotidal beach ; embayed beach ; slope ; infragravity ; {FRANCE}},
  booktitle = {},
  journal = {{J}ournal of {C}oastal {R}esearch},
  numero = {no sp{\'e}cial 75},
  pages = {373--377},
  ISSN = {0749-0208},
  year = {2016},
  DOI = {10.2112/si75-075.1},
  URL = {https://www.documentation.ird.fr/hor/{PAR}00014422},
}